Mixture of traditions is creating a new fusion ISRAEL'S ECLECTIC cuisine BY ROSIE SCHWARTZ Southern Newspapers JERUSALEM Mediterranean cooking is hot. Centuries-old dishes from countries around the rim of a the Mediterranean are gaining international popularity because of -their healthful ingredients and fresh flavours. But in one of those countries a new way of cooking is emerging Israel is involved in a vibrant search for its own culinary identity. The faces of its people have changed dramatically during its 50 years of existence. Immigrants - from eastern Europe, Russia, - France, Italy, North America and Arab countries such as Syria and Morocco have brought an eclectic mix of culinary traditions. One of the leaders in the quest for a national cuisine has been Shalom Kadosh, executive chef at Jerusalem's Sheraton Plaza Hotel. To him, it makes sense to base Israeli cuisine on what's termed the Seven Species: olive oil, wheat, honey, dates, figs, pomegranates and grapes (wine). These Seven Species originate in the Old Testament but are still just as much a part of the agricultural landscape as they were thousands of years ago. Kadosh, like other chefs in Israel, has gone abroad to expand his culinary horizons. He updates the classics he finds on his travels by adding his own, Israeli touch. He is also skilled at creating new masterpieces - such as quail prepared with an onion-and-pomegranate sauce or savory stuffed figs. Moshe Basson, chef-owner of the Eucalyptus in Jerusalem, takes a different approach. While, like Kadosh, he bases his creations on Israel's products, his inspiration comes not from travelling the world but from the Bible. Basson's lamb dishes are seasoned with the same herbs used thousands of years ago. As we talked, he snapped a pinecone and popped out a nut for me to sample. He travels throughout the country to harvest wild herbs and has a reputation as an expert on them. Paula Wolfert, guru of Mediterranean cookbooks, recently spent a day with him, exploring Israel's countryside as research for a new book. When I mentioned to Basson that I would soon be travelling to the northern part of Israel, to the city of Teverya (Tiberias) on the Sea of Galilee, he told me to watch for the beautiful flowers of Jerusalem sage, which grows along the roadside. He has started growing his own produce on his restaurant's rooftop. "Arugula, like children, needs the exact amount of care to give it the right character," he said, between running up and down the stairs. Israel is known for its street food. Pitas, both the regular and soft Iraqi types, are filled with falafel balls, the fragrant chickpea delicacies, and a huge variety of salads. And, oh, what Salads Israel's cuisine is based on seasonal foods and, because of its climate, the bounty is luscious and plentiful. As one fruit or vegetable disappears from the market, another appears. A stroll through the Mahane Yehuda Market in Jerusalem, or Carmel Market in Tel Aviv, reveals barrels of olives, all sorts of herbs in huge quantities and fruits and vegetables at their peak of ripeness. On one visit, it seemed like there was a sea of cherry tomatoes, which had just come into season.