Eucalyptus, an underground Jerusalem institution, has long been a place of pilgrimage for visiting food writers and other embusiats of the gastronomic experience. Located in a ramshackle building in the Talpiot industrial zone, bidden under a spreading tree which gave she establishment its name, its fame spread slowly by word of mouth. When the restaurant closed last year, there was mourning in the culinary community. Recently, Eucalyptus has reappeared in the center of town. The menu is just as imaginative as ever. The proprietor, who in the past refused to obtain a kashrut certificate despite his steady stream of observant clients, has now applied for a certificate. We began our meal with a few salads made from some greens, known in local parlance (I'm not sure whether it is Arabic or Ladino) as rijle and kabanos. Each was distinctive and delicious, although I would be hard put to describe their flavors other than as very fresh tasting. I asked for only the briefest taste of salads for fear of not having room for the other dishes, although after seeing the vast selection arriving at other tables, I must say I regretted that decision. In any case I went on to a bowl of refreshingly cold sorrel soup. Sorrel, a sour herb that grows wild in Jerusalem and elsewhere, is the main ingredient of Eastern European schav, which this soup resembled somewhat. My Companion tried the cold almond and garlic soup, a dish which could be said to resemble nothing else in the world. The garlic was evident, but not overpowering, and the almonds provided a creamy consistency. This too was refreshing and stimulating. For the main course, I decided to try something about which I have read a great deal, malokhia a green which is said to be the national dish of Egypt. When cooked, its leaves acquire a consistency similar to that of okra. The malokhia, flavored with lemon, was the sauce for a generous piece of roast chicken and rice. My companion tried a dish which only at a restaurant such as this could be said to be conventional, Moroccan fish. However, even this was outstanding. Although hot pepper was quite evident in the cooking, it served to complement,